Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
